събота, 25 март 2017 г.

Sunny Little Rabbit with one piece body



This is one of my first designs. It is easy and small. Great way to learn some new techniques. And yellow - my son's favorite color. Since the pattern is not complicated it will work on any hook size.

Supplies:
cotton yarn, 2.5 mm crochet hook, marker, stuffing, needle for sewing, scissors,
safety eyes and nose or dark yarn for those.

Start with the arms, you will be attaching them later.


Arm - make two
  1. 6 sc in magic ring
  2. [inc] 6 times (12)
  3. [inc, 3 sc] rep (15)
  4. 1sc in each st
  5. 1sc in each st
  6. [dec, 3 sc] rep (12)
  7. - 10. 1sc in each st (12) for 4 rows
Leave a tail, use it later to close the small gaps after joining with the body.
    Now continue with the legs. Finish the first one and leave a small tail, you will use that tail to close the small gap between the two legs. Do not cut off the yarn of the second one, you will continue working the body.

    Leg - make two
    1. 6sc in magic ring
    2. [inc] 6 times (12)
    3. [inc, sc] rep (18)
    4. 1sc in each st
    5. 1sc in each st 
    6. [dec, sc] rep (12)
    7. - 9. 1sc in each (12) for 3 rows
    Now after finishing the second leg, continue working on the first one:


    Body
    1. 1sc around the two legs (24) 
    2. [inc, 3 sc] rep (30)
    3. [inc, 4sc] rep (36)
    4.  1sc in each st (36) (repeat for 7 rows)
    5.  1sc in each st (36)
    6.  1sc in each st (36)
    7.  1sc in each st (36)
    8.  1sc in each st (36)
    9.  1sc in each st (36)
    10.  1sc in each st (36)
    11. [dec, 4 sc] rep (30)
    12. 1sc in each sc
    13. [dec, 3 sc] rep (24)
    14. 1sc in each st (24)    That's the time when the arms should be attached. Place some markers to  help yourself. Sew 6 stitches from the arm to 6 sts to the body. Do it again for the other arm. The next round will have the same number of stitches as the previous one.
    15.  1sc in each st (24)
    16. [dec, 4 sc] rep (20)
    17. 1sc in each st (20)
    Attaching the arms:

    Finish and cut yarn, stuff the body and continue with the head


    Head

    1. 6sc in magic loop
    2. [inc] rep (12)
    3. [inc, sc] rep (18)
    4. [inc, 2 sc] rep  (24)
    5. [inc, 3 sc] rep  (30)
    6. 1sc in each st (30) for 4 rows
    7. 1sc in each st
    8. 1sc in each st
    9. 1sc in each st
    10. [inc, 4 sc] rep  (36)
    11. [inc, 5 sc] rep  (42)
    12. 1sc in each st
    13. [dec, 5 sc] rep (36)
    14. [dec, 4 sc] rep (30)
    15. [dec, 3 sc] rep (24)
    16. [dec, 4 sc] rep (20)
    Finish and stuff the head, leave a long tail to sew the head to the body. They will have the same number of stitches so it will be easy to attach them. I don't use safety eyes, but if you do put them before sewing.

    Ear - make two
    1. 1sc in magic loop (6)
    2. [inc, sc] rep (9)
    3. 1sc in each st
    4. 1sc in each st
    5. [inc, 2 sc] rep (12)
    6. [inc, 2 sc] rep (16)
    7. 1sc in each st (16)
    8. 1sc in each st (16)
    9. [dec, 2 sc] rep (12)
    10. [dec, 2 sc] rep (9)
    11. 1sc in each st
    12. 1sc in each st
    Do not stuff the ears. Leave a long tail for sewing. I really like that part. I use pins always. You are almost done. 



    Tail

    1. 6 sc in magic loop
    2. [inc, sc] rep (9)
    Leave a tail for sewing.

    Circles for the muzzle (I don't know how to call them :D)
    use white or different color
    1. 6sc in magic loop
    2. [inc] 6 times (12)
    Nose
        3 sc in magic ring but without slip stitch and leave a tail for sewing. Or use a safety nose.

    Belly -  use white or different color
    1. 6sc in magic loop
    2. [inc] rep (12)
    3. [inc, sc] rep(18)
    4. [inc, 2 sc] rep (24)
    Leave a long tail for sewing.

    I would love to see your finished toys in ravelry!

    събота, 18 февруари 2017 г.

    Squares Math Hath #2


    I designed this hat for my husband. But I think it goes well on women too. At least I would wear it! It is kind of reversible and is stretchy. That's why it fits really well. The yarn I used is wool. The color surprised me since I ordered black. It turns out that it is hard to take photos of brown garments. I hope you can see what I see and I will try this hat with different yarn next time.

    You could easily change the pattern according to your gauge. You will decrease for each square so you could increase or decrease the number of squares.
    Half of the stitches are knit through the back loop - it gives the interesting look. Of course you could knit those stitches through front look but it will have a slightly different look. If you do so, knit the ribbing with smaller needles size.


    Gauge: 26 stitches and 28 rows in squares pattern. (like the body of the hat).

    I used 40 cm 4 mm circular needles and change to magic loop when decreasing. You will need stitch marker to mark the beginning of the row. You will also need tapestry needle and scissors for finishing off.

    The finished height of this hat is 19 cm and 20 cm wide not stretched. It fits on average adult - 56 cm.

    Abbreviations
    sts - stitches
    k - knit
    p - purl
    ktbl - knit through back loop - the stitch will be slightly twisted
    k2tog - knit 2 stitches together
    [ ] rep - repeat till the end of row
    ( )x 2 - repeat the sequence in the brackets 2 times

    Pattern
    Cast on 110 sts using the long tail cast on method. Join for working in the round and place stitch marker.

    Ribbing
    row 1 - 10: p, ktbl

    Body 
    row 1: [k5, (ktbl, p) x 2 , ktbl] rep
    row 2: [p5, (ktbl, p) x 2 , ktbl] rep

    Repeat row 1 and 2  3 more times. This is the first row of squares.

    row 9: [(ktbl, p) x 2, ktbl, k5] rep
    row 10: [(ktbl, p) x 2, ktbl, p5] rep

    Repeat row 9 and 10 3 more times. This is the second row of squares.

    Knit 3 more rows of squares, alternating them. Or knit until the body of the hat measures 14 cm - 5 inches and a half.


    Decreases
    row 1: [(ktbl, p) x 2, ktbl, k, k2tog, k2] rep
    row 2 [(ktbl, p) x 2, ktbl, p4] rep
    row 3: [(ktbl, p) x 2, ktbl, k, k2tog, k] rep
    row 4: [(ktbl, p) x 2, ktbl, p3] rep
    row 5: [(ktbl, p) x 2, ktbl, k, k2tog] rep
    row 6: [(ktbl, p) x 2, ktbl, p2] rep
    row 7: [(ktbl, p) x 2, ktbl, k2tog] rep
    row 8: [(ktbl, p) x 2, ktbl, p1] rep
    row 9: (k, k2tog, k2, ktbl) rep
    row 10: (p4, ktbl) rep
    row 11: (k, k2tog, k, ktbl) rep
    row 12: (p3, ktbl) rep
    row 13: (k2tog, ktbl) rep (22)
    row 14: (k2tog) rep
    row 15: (k2tog) x 5, k1
    Finish off.

    I would love to see your finished hat in ravelry!


    сряда, 8 февруари 2017 г.

    Cables Math Hat #1

    I designed that hat even though the snow was melting and winter was almost over. I suppose there are still some cold days to come. I love the winter's end. Cables provide a stretchy fabric and I really like the tight fit of the adult S. I wanted the ribbing to be short and broken knit stitch really reminds me of cables somehow. The stitches are gracefully decreasing in the crown. I really love doing that kind of math! Since this is my first knit pattern written down I really hope it's understandable. I will definitely take more photos next time. Please feel free to leave a comment if you have any questions.
    You will need superwash merino(I used Performance Merino Passion - Bulgarian yarn.) - bulky (120 gr, about 140m), 5 mm 40 cm circular needles for the body, 4 mm 40cm circular needles for the ribbing, cable needle, tapestry needle, scissors, stitch marker. Longer circular needles for decreasing or dpns. You can also use magic loop with longer circulars.
    Gauge is 17 stitches in stockinette are 10 cm. Knit a few rows and measure

    This is adult S in the images - it is a tight fit for adults.

    The pattern is written in two sizes - teenage/adult S and adult Large - adult S (adult L).

    How to read the pattern:
    It is worked in the round. Slip the stitch marker when finishing a row. 
    k2tog - this is knit 2 stitches together - right leaning decrease
    ssk - this is slip slip knit - left leaning decreases
    k2 - knit 2 stitches 
    Think of the pattern as cables joined together. But even if you don't have much cable experience it's a great start. 

    With 4 mm needles cast on 108 (126) using the long tail cast on. Place stitch marker and join for working in the round. 
    Row 1 - 5: The ribbing is worked one knit stitch through the back loop (k1tbl), one purl stitch. It is broken rib stitch in the round. (For adult L you can make the ribbing 8 rows.)


    The Body of the hat Change to 5 mm needles.
    You will repeat the following pattern 4 times(5 times):
    row 1: knit 
    row 2: knit
    row 3: move 3 stitches to the cable needle and leave them in front, knit 3 stitches, knit the stitches from the cable needle, knit 3 stitches. The pattern is 9 stitch. Repeat it till the end of this round.
    row 4: knit
    row 5: knit
    row 6: knit
    row 7: knit 3, move 3 stitches to the cable needle and leave them in back, knit 3 stitches, knit the stitches from the cable needle.
    row 8: knit

    Crown
    The decreases are made the following way:
    row 1: knit
    row 2: knit
    row 3: (move 3 stitches to the cable needle and leave them in front, knit 3 stitches, k2tog, k1 from the cable needle, knit 3 stitches) repeat. The decrease is hidden in the back of the cable. After that row you will have a total of 96 (112) stitches.
    row 4: knit
    row 5: (k6, k2tog) x 12 (14) times. Stitches left - 84 (98)
    row 6: knit
    row 7:  (k2tog, k3, ssk) x 12 (14) times. Stitches left - 60 (70)
    Slip 2 stitches purlwise and move the beginning of the row here moving the marker after those 2 stitches. Change to magic loop or dpns.
    row 8: (move 3 stitches to the cable needle in front, k2tog, k1, k3 from the cable needle, k4) repeat 6 (7) times. Stitches left - 54 (63)
    row 9: (k2tog, k3, ssk, k2) rep 6 (7) times. Stitches left - 42 (49)
    Slip the first stitch purlwise. Move the stitch marker one stitch to the left.
    row 10: (k5, k2tog) rep 6 (7) times. Stitches left - 36 (42)

    (Knit the next row for adult L only
    row 10L: (k2tog, k4) rep 7 times. Stitches left 36)

    row 11: (move 3 stitches to the cable needle in front, k2tog, k1, k3 from the cable needle) rep 6 (7) times. Stitches left 30

    row 12: (k2tog, k3) rep 6 times. Stitches left 24
    row 13: ssk around 12 times. Stitches left 12
    row 14: ssk around 6 times. Stitches left 6
    Cut yarn, using tapestry needle finish off.


    вторник, 31 януари 2017 г.

    Little Heart For Fun

     

    Maybe these hearts are too simple to have their own pattern,  but I decided to have them published anyway. I have included photos and tips. I used the invisible decrease for this pattern and I definitely prefer it! If you haven't used it, you should try it, check my photos at the bottom of this page, it's so easy :) Stuff them just a little. I also hid some tiny magnets in my hearts. Or you can glue them on a stick! The bottom of the heart can be easily changed... I used 3.0 mm hook and cotton yarn.



    Supplies: 
    You will need yarn, crochet hook, stuffing, darning needle and scissors
    I also used little magnets(I hide them inside) and my hearts are on my refrigerator.

    How to read the pattern
    The project is worked in spiral. No joining.
    st - stitch
    sc - single crochet

    2sc - 1sc in next 2 st, 3st - 1sc in next 3 st
    sl st - slip stitch

    inc - increase - two stitches in next stitch
    dec - decrease - this time I used invisible decrease - see photos. You can also use sc2tog, but I recommend you inv dec! 

    *inc, sc* repeat 3 times - means: 
    inc, sc,inc, sc,inc, sc
    (12) - means the number of stitches you should have after finishing the row 

    Magic ring

     

     
    Hemisphere 
    1. 6sc in MR
    2.  *inc* repeat 6 times (12)
    3.  1sc in each st (12) for 3 rows
    4.  1sc in each st 
    5.  1sc in each st  
    Finish and leave a small tail on the first hemisphere:
     

    After finishing the second one, do not cut yarn but continue working on the first one. The first stitch of the first row of the body is made on the first hemisphere (with yarn from the second one). The last stitch of the first row of the body is made on the second hemisphere. And count stitches after finishing this row. It's easy to make a mistake.
    Number of stiches of the first row of the body = number of stitches of the hemishere X 2
    24 = 12 X 2
    At the bottom of the page there is another photo from my bunny tutorial, explaining this same technique.

    Body
    1. 1sc in each st (24)
    2. [dec, 4sc] repeat 4 times (20)
    3. 1sc in each st (20)
    4. [dec, 3sc] repeat 4 times (16), stuff
    5. 1sc in each st
    6. [dec, 2sc] repeat 4 times (12), stuff some more if needed
    7. 1sc in each st
    8. [dec] repeat 6 times (6)
    9. 1sc in each st (optional row)
    Finish off.








     
     
     

    First row of the body again



     Invisible decrease explained:

    събота, 14 януари 2017 г.

    My son's duckling

    After finishing the big duck (see this post) my son asked me for little ones. My husband was waiting me to finish his socks but these ducklings were in my mind a really long time. We have that book about mother duck and duckling. Egg hatches and a little one is welcome to the world, finds new friends, learns to swim. You know the story.


    The duckling is crochet in one piece with sport weight yarn and 3 mm hook. You will need a darning needle just for finishing off. I crochet the wings and the beak on the toy without sewing them. Work in a spiral, no joining between rounds and check how to read amigurumi patterns section above. Do not forget to put marker in the end of the row as there are several custom rows. I am using the invisible decrease. When decreasing the body be careful with your tension. Crochet tight.

     I really like one piece amigurumi toys. They keep their shape, no need to assemble and wonder where to attach the parts. My children play with them and I want them to last longer. My little one is still putting everything in his mouth and I decided to sew the eyes. See the photos below.

    Here's the pattern for the ducklings:
    1. 6 sc in mr
    2. 6 inc (12)
    3. [inc, sc] 6 times (18)
    4. 18 sc
    5. 18 sc
    6. 18 sc
    7. 18 sc
    8. [dec, sc] x 6 (12) -- stuff the head with fiberfill
    9. [dec,  2sc] rep (9)
    10. [inc, 2 sc] rep (12)
    11. [inc, sc] rep (18) -- stuff 
    12. 2 sc, inc, 2 sc, inc, 2 sc, [inc, 2 sc] x 5 (25)
    13. 10 sc, [inc, 2 sc] x 5 (30)
    14. 10 sc, [inc, 3 sc] x 5(35)
    15. 35 sc
    16. sc, dec, 3 sc, dec, 12 sc, 4 inc, 11 sc (37)
    17. dec, 2 sc, dec, 2 sc, [dec, sc] x 4, 3 sc, [dec, sc] x 4, 3 sc (28)
    18. [dec, 5 sc] rep (24)
    19. [dec, 2 sc] rep (18)
    20. [dec, sc] rep (12) -- stuff again
    21. 6 dec and finish off





    Eyes
    Put pins to decide where the eyes should be.







    Beak 
     Make slip stitch, then 3 single crochet horizontally from right to left, 1 ch and turn on 180 degree; 4 single crochet. Turn again and make 2 slip stitch in the middle lower loops, slip stitch in the first single crochet. Also you could make 2 single crochet instead of the slip stitch. Both look great.



    Wings
    Use your imagination to make those little wings. I will show you my choice.

    Looking from above (if you were the duck) - the right wing is started closer to the head and worked towards the tail. Yarn over, pull through and make a slip stitch. Work 2 more single crochet this way. Turn and chain 3, single crochet c in the first loop, inserting the hook in the first loop only. Then add two more single crochet and finish off. Make a knot with the threads and hide it inside of the toy.


    The left wing is worked the opposite way. Now start closer the tail, making one slip stitch and 2 single crochet, chain 1 and turn, 3 single crochet, 3 chain and slip stitch where the last single crochet was made. Finish off.



    понеделник, 9 януари 2017 г.

    Little Mouse with Big Eyes

     
    I started this project as something else and somehow I ended up with a mouse. It was created a year ago and is one of my first designs.. The mouse is about 14 cm in sitting position. (5 and a half inches). I wanted him to look scared maybe, so I put him big eyes. You could place safety eyes and it would look totally different! You will notice the head increases are not regular. And where you increase - it's the face. 
    I used cotton yarn for this toy and 3 mm hook. Prepare your needle, stuffing, scissors and lets begin.

    Head
    1. 6sc in magic ring (6)
    2. [inc] rep (12) 
    3.  3 sc, 6 inc, 3sc (18)
    4. sc (18)
    5. 6 sc, 6 inc, 6 sc (24)
    6. sc (24)
    7. 9 sc, 6 inc, 9 sc (30)
    8. sc (30)
    9. [inc, 4 sc] rep (36)
    10. sc
    11. sc
    12. [dec, 4 sc] rep (30)
    13. [dec, 3 sc] rep (24), stuff the head
    14. [dec, 4 sc], rep (20)
    15. [dec, 3 sc] rep (16)
    16. [dec, 2 sc] rep (12), add some more stuffing
    17. [dec, sc] rep (8)
    Cut yarn and close the gap with a needle

    Body - it is worked from bottom to top.
    1. 6sc in magic ring (6)
    2. [inc] rep (12) 
    3. [inc, sc], rep (18)
    4. [inc, 2 sc] rep (24)
    5. [inc, 3 sc] rep (30)
    6. sc (30) for 8 rows
    7. sc
    8. sc
    9. sc
    10. sc
    11. sc
    12. sc
    13. sc      
    14. [dec, 3 sc] (24)
    15. sc (24)
    16. sc (24)
    17. [dec, 4 sc] (20)
    18. [dec, 3 sc] (16), stuff the body
    19. [dec, 2 sc] (12)
    20. sc
    21. sc
    Stuff some more, do not close the gap, cut yarn, leave a tail and sew the body to the head. Insert the needle in every stitch (they are 12) and sew the head.

    If you want you could make the arms shorter, just reduce the number of rows. Pin them and decide :). Do not stuff them.

    Arm - make two
    1. 9 sc in magic ring (9)
    2. sc (9)
    3. [dec, sc] rep (6)
    4. - 13. sc (6) for 10 rows
    Leg - make two
    1. 6 sc in magic ring (6)
    2. [inc] rep (12) 
    3. sc (12)
    4. [dec, sc] rep(8)
    5.  - 13. sc (8) for 9 rows
    Tail - with main colour or pink

         21 chain, 20 sc, starting from the second st from the hook, turn, 20 sl st from the other side. 
    You are making a round and a half that way. So leave a tail for sewing. And hide the beginning tail inside the tail. You can always reduce/increase the lenght of the tail. Another way to crochet a tail is to 6sc in magic ring and sc in each until you reach the desired length.

    Eye - inner circle - dark colour, black
    1.  6 sc in magic ring (6)
    Slip stitch and cut yarn, leaving a tail for sewing to the outer circle


    Eye - outer circle - white colour
    1.  6 sc in magic ring (6)
    2. [inc] rep (12)
    Slip stitch and cut yarn, leaving a tail for sewing. First sew the inner to the outer circle, than sew the eye to the head. 


    Nose - see picture of this cool knot or use a safety nose, or sew one.



    Ear - make two
    1. 6sc in magic ring (6)
    2. [inc] rep (12) 
    3. [inc, sc] rep (18)
    4. [inc, 2 sc] rep (24)
    5. sc (24)
    6. [dec, 4 sc] rep 20)
    7. [dec 3 sc] rep (16)
    8. sc (16)
    9. [dec, 2 sc] rep (20)
    Cut yarn and leave a tail for sewing to the head. But before sewing make the inner circles of the ears and sew them first.

    Ear - inner circle - make two - pink colour
    1. 6sc in magic ring (6)
    2. [inc] rep (12) 
    Slip stitch and cut yarn, leaving a small tail. Sew them to the ears.
    Add whiskers with dark yarn and a needle.


    Bow
        chain 3, 2 dc in the first chain, chain 2, sl st in the first chain,
        chain 2, 2 dc in the first chain, chain 2, sl st in the first chain,
        leave a tail and make a knot around the first chain to shape the bow,
        Add chain 11 to the bow, sew it below the bow and then sew the bow on the mouse. 
    See picture